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				This hammer work cannot be carried 
				out on an unmounted picture which would split when struck with 
				hammer and punch. So I have mounted the finished tree on a piece 
				of MDF. It is now stable and is ready for the next stage. A serrated punch has to be made. This is 
				easily done. Take a 6” nail and cut the point off. Secure it in 
				a vice with the flat face uppermost. Take a small hacksaw with 
				sharp blade and cut three cuts across the face of the nail to 
				about one millimetre depth. Turn the nail 90o and repeat the 
				process. The face of the nail should have a crisscross pattern. 
				I use a triangular file and a thin one to file along the cuts to 
				make sharper points. The punch is now ready for use. Nails of 
				differing thicknesses can be used and can be useful additions to 
				your tool box. At this stage, if you have not used this 
				technique before it is advisable to practice on piece of ply 
				wood as you don’t want to spoil months of work by inexperience 
				punch work. When using the punch you must hold it 
				upright otherwise the indentations will be of unequal depth. Strike the nail firmly. Aim to go 
				through the picture into the base board. In my picture I started 
				‘punching’ in the bottom right hand branches but there is no 
				correct place to start. Use your imagination. Decide what colours you want in you 
				picture. In my picture I wanted autumn colours – reds, yellows 
				and brown. In different pictures other colours may be required. 
				The sawdust should be quite fine to be forced into the holes 
				left by the punch. There are various ways to obtain the 
				sawdust. I select the veneer that I wish to use and cut it into 
				short strips and glue them together until they are the thickness 
				of a pencil. I then put it into an electric pencil sharpener. 
				The dust collected is fine enough to use. Another method I have 
				used is to file the strips with a wood rasp or yet again sand 
				with a course glass paper. If you require a coloured wood, dye 
				the veneer before making the ‘pencil’ you will see that I have 
				three basic colours which I have mixed together to obtain an 
				‘Autumn mix’ Wipe white PVA glue well into the 
				punched holes and quickly before the glue goes off sprinkle the 
				dust over them bit by bit. With the flat end of the hammer press 
				the dust into the holes. Place a piece of polyfilm over the 
				picture and press it in a press to ensure the holes are all 
				filled. Leave for 24 hours then take out of the 
				press and remove the polyfilm. Now comes the hard work. Removing 
				all the dust except that which has been pressed into the holes. 
				Use a cork block and glass paper lightly. Do not tilt the block 
				as you risk damaging the edges of the picture. Glass paper is my 
				preferred method as scraping will tear the dust out of the 
				holes. Continue sanding until all the residue 
				has been removed and you will see the holes now appear like 
				leaves. If the finished product is not to your liking or the 
				leaves are required to be more thickly spread repeat the 
				process, perhaps with a different colour over the top of the 
				existing ones. Having achieved the desired effect, seal 
				the leaves with a sanding sealer to stop ‘bleed out’ into the 
				background wood and when dry finish in your usual way. 
				The 
				following photo sequence demonstrates how to make the "punches" 
				necessaryfor doing this technique - and the procedure for applying the 
				veneer dust.
 
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